2011 vintage port _4_

2011 Vintage Port Offer An
Embarrassment of Riches!
If the declaration of the 2011 vintage has been viewed as a given since late last year, the signs during the growing season itself were anything but promising. ‘Complicated’ appears to be the most regularly occurring word in recollections of the ups and downs, the twists and turns. To cap it all, the final quality was ultimately determined by rain in August, allowing the phenolic maturity to catch up with the sugars. There aren’t too many vineyards on the planet in which you’ll hear a pray for rain in August… If ‘great wine is made in the vineyard’, that does not discount the effort, skill, and no lack of investment required, once nature has done its bit. The Ports below combine fruit selected from the best and oldest vines, in the finest vineyards, and the full benefit of the enormous wealth of experience and ability amongst the Quintas and Lodges of the Douro. There may be debate for decades over ranking – will individual 2011s be
regarded as the finest, or only the second or third best vintage of the half-
century or so, will they eclipse ’94, ’63 or even ’45 - but the fact that the
wines offered below provide almost unsurpassable quality is beyond doubt.

"….overall, the 2011s justify the hype that has fomented around their release.
Collectively they form a delightful, occasionally profound set of
young Ports with glistening futures ahead. While the fineness of the tannins
and freshness may lure some to relish their precocious youth, there is no
escaping the fact that few beverages surpass Port when they pass thirty years
of age…….these are truly wonderful Vintage Ports that will reward extended
cellaring. Declarations are, more often than not, promises that are kept."
Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
"2011 vintage Port is exceptional! I just got back from visiting Oporto last
week where I tasted almost 50 samples, and I have to say that the 2011 is the
best since the legendary 1994 - and perhaps even better. It reminds me of the
1966, or 1927."
James Suckling
"I have never been as excited by the launch of a clutch of vintage ports. The
quality of the best examples, of which there are many, is outstanding."
Jancis Robinson MW
Contents
Cockburn’s
Graham’s
Graham’s Stone Terraces
Niepoort
Niepoort Bioma Vinha Velha
Quinta do Noval
Quinta do Noval Naçional
Quinta do Vesuvio
Quinta do Vesuvio Capela
Taylor’s
Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha
Warre’s
2011 Cockburn’s @ £185 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
Sourced primarily from Quinta dos Canais and Quinta do Vale Coelho in the Douro
Superior. Despite fruit from the hotter end of the river, the 2011 is marked by excellent
poise and refinement – with the Symingtons’ stated intent to return to the house style of
the early 20th century.

Superb freshness, clarity and elegance. Floral and lively nose. Vibrant cherry and wild
strawberries. Not the densest, but great peppery intensity, with proper structure and good
length. 2018-2040+
92-94 Points, Jeroboams
Beefy nose again. And then massively sweet and intense. Noble structure and really quite dry
on the finish. Tense finish after a very broad spread on the start. Balsamic notes.
18.5 Points, Jancis Robinson MW

The Cockburn’s Vintage Port is sourced from their two main vineyards, Quinta dos Canais
and Quinta do Vale Coelho, plus a small contribution from Quinta do Cachão de Arnozelo.
Around 55% of the blend is sourced from Touriga Naçional vines in Quinta dos Canais, the
remainder of the blend 30% Touriga Franca, 5% Sousão and 10% a mixture of old vines. The
fruit was picked between September 8 and October 5 at Canais and between September 12
and 30 at Vale Coelho. It has a lifted bouquet with raisin, fresh dates and some lovely
tobacco and sandalwood aromas that lend the aromatic profile complexity, although it feels
rather compact at the moment. The palate is very well-balanced with a spicy, black pepper-
tinged opening and very good structure. There is wonderful focus here, with a refined, clove-
tinged finish and a long, spicy aftertaste so you do not forget it in a hurry. The 2011
Cockburn harks back to those classics of yesteryear. Cockburn’s is back.
94-96 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Great nose here with flowers, leaves and a wet earth character. Full body, lightly sweet with
a massive finish. This is muscular, toned and intense. Superb: the greatest ever vintage Port
from here! This is tasting much better than from barrel. 3,000 cases produced of this
mechanically trodden wine. Try after 2024.
98 Points, James Suckling

2011 Croft @ £190 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
@ £195 c/s IB (12 halves per case)
@ £385 c/s IB (6 magnums per case)

Since being brought back into family ownership in September 2001, Quinta do Roeda has
seen significant investments, including the reintroduction of granite lagares and foot-
treading for the production of Vintage Ports. Recent improvements notwithstanding, this
wonderful estate just along the river from Bomfim has also retained extensive old-style
terraces – the old vines therein providing much of the character of the 2011.

Focussed damson and blackberry fruit. Generous, but with a mineral bead, real savour and
good grip. Very refined. 2018-2035.
91-93 Points, Jeroboams
Not one of the deepest colours. Rather smudgy, indistinct nose. Something a bit vegy/herby
about this wine. More open than most. Almost as though it is made to sit under the Fonseca
and Taylor from this stable. Agreeable but not the most ambitious. Slightly sudden dry finish.
Just a tad spindly.
17.0 Points, Jancis Robinson MW
The 2011 Croft is initially taciturn on the nose, even after allowing it 20 minutes in my glass.
A light swirling immediately awakens the aromatics to offer blackberry, Seville orange
marmalade, blueberries and dried fig – complex and quite compelling. There is real
mineralité within this bouquet that, returning after 30 minutes, offers alluring ocean spray
scents rolling in off the ocean. The palate is medium-bodied with a velvety-smooth opening
that belies the fine, structured tannins underneath. It clams up a little towards the finish, shuts
the lid tight and consequently there is the sensation of less persistency here compared to the
Taylor’s or Fonseca. But Croft has a knack of filling out with bottle age and becomes both
gentle and generous with the passing years.
92-95 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Beautiful aromas of violets and blueberries with hints of blue slate. Full body, medium sweet
with chewy tannins and a long, long finish. A leafy, stemmy, nutty undertone to this with
hints of shaved milk chocolate. Very refined and beautiful. 5,000 cases produced of this foot-
trodden wine. Try in 2021.
95 Points, James Suckling

2011 Dow’s @ £225 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
@ £225 c/s IB (12 halves per case)

As always, Bomfim and Senhora da Ribeira (now supplemented with fruit from A-rated
quintas Santinho and Cerdeira) ensure continuity of the drier house style here, a high
percentage of old-vine Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca guaranteeing powerful
structure and ageing potential.

Jet black. Density discernible on the nose – refined black cherries and five-spice – and
followed up on the massive palate. Huge fruit density, but with the classic Dow’s savoury
tones. Plums, blackurrants and figs give way to bitter chocolate and pepper, and the almost-
dry finish. Mineral and linear in form. Blue chip. 2020-2050+.
96-98 Points, Jeroboams
Tobacco nose and then the most extraordinary texture. So voluptuous and I could love it
tonight! So appetising and beautifully balanced. Long. So complete. Tea leaves. So exciting.
Such intensity than the tannins are barely perceptible. Lip smacking.
18.5 Points, Jancis Robinson MW
The 2011 Dow Vintage Port was made from no less than 44 separate ferments from finest
fruit sourced from Quinta do Bomfim (35% of the blend), Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira
(42%) and the Santinho (14%) and Cerdeira (6%) estates. Just six of the best lots were used
in the final blend, which consists of 40% Touriga Franca, 36% Touriga Naçional, 10%
Sousão and 14% of old vine plantings. It has a beautiful, quite extravagant bouquet with
copious black and red fruit, Indian spice, and hints of menthol and orange rind that unfold
wonderfully in the glass. The palate is a sumptuous affair, one that is beautifully balanced
with velvety smooth, plump tannins, copious black fruit with a harmonious, white pepper-
tinged finish that is a decadent delight. This is one of the finest of the declarations of 2011
Vintage Ports, a sublime expression of the vintage you would be foolish not to buy. This is
Dow at its best. 5,000 cases have been declared.
96-98 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Wow. What a sexy nose with aromas of crushed berries, wet earth and pebbles. Full body,
medium sweet with an intense and powerful finish. A vintage Port that leaves an impression.
5,000 cases produced of this mechanically trodden wine. Try in 2023.
96 Points, James Suckling

2011 Fonseca @ £240 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
@ £245 c/s IB (12 halves per case)
@ £490 c/s IB (6 magnums per case)

Highly reputed and quite beautiful, Quinta do Panascal supplied grapes to Fonseca for
several decades before being purchased in 1978. Following continual investment, the
estate now forms the basis of the Fonseca blend. In the Pinhao valley, ancient vines and
the most up-to-date vineyard techniques are employed at Cruzeiro and S.Antonio, the latter
being fully certified organic since 2010.

Super-rich, opulent fruit, but good licquoric eand floral complexity. Starts luscious and silky,
but excellent savour and structure combine on the finish. No rough edges – massive, but
beautifully well-knit, and incredibly long. 2022-2050+
96-98 Points, Jeroboams
Heady, opulent nose. Completely enveloping, Smells as though there is going to be the most
fabulous texture. Wow! All stops pulled out for this one. It's all absolutely gorgeous intensity
of sweet fruit on the front palate and then gradually the schist and structure reveal
themselves. This is really wonderful stuff. So tempting to sip it decades before it is ready.
19.5 Points, Jancis Robinson MW

The Fonseca 2011 is typically more forthcoming on the nose compared to the bashful Croft:
a strident bouquet with lifted scents of freshly picked blackberries, kirsch, crushed stone and
a dash of Hoi Sin and oyster sauce. It is very well-defined, very focused and direct. The
palate is silky smooth with not a rough edge in sight, though not a typically voluptuous
Fonseca because of the keen thread of acidity and the structure that lends this mighty Port
wonderful backbone. A slight viscosity on the finish lacquers the tongue and indicates a core
of sweet fruit is ticking away underneath that will surely explode several years after bottling.
A tincture of salted licorice on the aftertaste is very attractive. This will turn out to become
an outstanding Fonseca, the growing season taming its exuberance with spectacular results.
So much potential, but just 6,000 cases were produced.
97-99 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Very grapy and leafy with hints of spices on the nose. Full body, medium sweet with fine,
chewy tannins. Powerful, long finish with nuts and shaved chocolate. This young Fonseca
has grip. 6,000 cases produced of this foot-trodden wine. Try in 2022.
95 Points, James Suckling

2011 Graham’s @ £235 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
Famed for the stunning Malvedos estate, but 5 quintas contribute to the blend here – with
the strictest criteria applied in selecting the final lots.

So much vigour and vitality here – somehow simultaneously hedonistic and refined.
Saturated black fruits, lots of complexity – notes of black tea, roses and violets mingled with
red and black fruits together. Excellent acidity here – nothing edgy, but lending perfect
balance and harmony. Great persistence on the finish. 2020-2050+.
96-98 Points, Jeroboams

Meaty and concentrated. Really covers the palate – full width. Seems drier than most of the
components on the finish but thoroughly exciting and complete. Spicy and noble. Minerally
finish.
19.0 Points, Jancis Robinson MW

The 2011 Graham’s comes from the five quintas that have been the source for many years
(Malvedos, Tua, Vila Velha, das Lages and Vale de Malhadas). It represents a selection of
the 131 pipes from a total production of 1,454 and is a blend of 40% Touriga Naçional, 31%
Touriga Franca, 6% Sousão and 23% mixture of very old vines. It has a more “serious”
bouquet compared to the Dow, with beguiling scents of blackberry, wild hedgerow, tobacco
and cloves. Straight-laced, very well-defined and compelling, the palate is medium-bodied
with very fine tannins and supremely well-judged acidity. It is utterly harmonious, with a
pure core of ripe black cherries, damson, marmalade, clove and spices, and the finish lingers
long in the mouth. The separation of “The Stone Terraces” vines certainly does not appear to
have detracted from a great Graham’s. 5,000 cases declared.
95-97 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Aromas of licorice, wet earth and berries follow through to a full body, medium sweetness
and a chewy finish. Real deal. Structured. 8,000 cases produced of this mechanically trodden
wine. Try after 2023.
96 Points, James Suckling

2011 Graham’s Stone Terraces @ £460 c/s IB (6 bts per case) – On
allocation

From two small, terraced 18th century vineyards, of atypical easterly and northerly aspects,
Graham’s have produced this extremely limited release – just 250cs in total – as an
homage to the men and women who laboured to produce the imposing stone walls
surrounding the house at Malvedos. Quite distinct, and as true an expression of place as
you will find anywhere in the Douro.

Saturated with luscious black fruits, great density and complexity. Lifted aromatics – flowers
and herbs – add welcome freshness, and add to the sense of purity. Palate-coating
blackberries are kept honest with great acids and a bit of spicy zip. Almost more in the style
of Warre, but great depth, power of structure beneath. 2018-2040+.
96-97 Points, Jeroboams
Very atypical. Very big and ripe and beefy – sort of Bovril nose. Then sweeter and softer
than the Graham vintage on the palate. Not heavy. Minerally and racy. Distinctive.
18.5 Points, Jancis Robinson MW

The inaugural The Stone Terraces comes from two 18th century schist stone terraces in
Quinta dos Malvedos, one 1.6 hectares and the other 0.6 hectares, whose exposure and soil
have made them stand out over the years. Finally, in 2011 they were picked together and
fermented in one lagar that yielded just four pipes. It has startling clarity and minerality on
the nose, one of those young Ports where the spirit is so pure that it is difficult to distinguish
from an unfortified wine! The palate is silky smooth and slightly honeyed on the entry,
leading to a very harmonious, svelte, sensual Vintage Port with copious pure blackberry,
cassis and mineral notes that build wonderfully towards the finish. This is captivating, though
you will have to fight for one of the 250 cases (individually numbered bottles.)
96-98 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Fantastic aromas of crushed berries and flowers with hints of minerals. Full body, lightly
sweet with a powerful tannin and bright acid backbone. Goes on for minutes. Only 250 cases
produced of this mechanically trodden wine from two small stone-terraced vineyards at
Quinta dos Malvedos. Try after 2020.
97 Points, James Suckling

2011 Niepoort @ £210 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
Really tuned in to the land, Niepoort monitor every parcel and plot on each of their key
holdings, with several passes required in their prime vineyard Pisca. Optimum component
wines thus ensured, relentless tastings ensued throughout 2012 to ensure the finest
possible blend, and the best possible expression of Niepoort Vintage Port. A house going
from strength to strength.

Dense and austere to start, but many layers emerging. Bright, vibrant red and black fruit,
touch of perfume and herbs, black pepper savour on the finish. Massive, but agile, with
immense potential. 2022-2045.
95-98 Points, Jeroboams

Very intense blackish purple. Fantastic breadth and richness. Putty, opulent and so rich!
Much sweeter and juicier than the Bioma. Very lifted and dry on the end but only after the
most amazing fresh fruit. Racy and sinewy. Racehorse. Fab. Palate scrub on the end.
18.5 ++ Points, Jancis Robinson MW

The glass containing the Niepoort Vintage is almost overflowing with fruity aromas –
damson, cassis, tobacco and cigar box all beautifully defined. With aeration there is a very
appealing sense of Bordeaux-like austerity that comes forth. The palate is medium-bodied
with very fine tannins, a slight savoriness infusing the tertiary black fruit, and superb
structure on the reserved, quite aristocratic finish, which offers a kick of spice on the
aftertaste. Wonderful.
94-96 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Great nose here of crushed raspberries and minerals with hints of dark chocolate. Full body,
medium sweet with a chewy, peppery and lightly stemmy character. It’s long and tannic but
very polished. One of best ever young vintage Ports from here. 1,500 cases produced of this
foot-trodden wine. Try in 2023.
97 Points, James Suckling

2011 Niepoort Bioma Vinha Velha @ £135 c/s IB (3 bts per case) – On
allocation

Single vineyard (rather than single Quinta), with average age of vines at over 80, the
intention here is to make port in the unreconstructed style of English-bottled pre 1970
ports, whilst expressing the singular terroir of Vinha da Pisca.

Still quite unexpressive on the nose, but vibrant red fruits and minerality emerge on the
palate, coated with grainy tannins. All intensity and precision, and less showy than many of
it’s peers at this stage. Still maturing in pipas up the Douro valley until next Spring, quality
will out. 2020-2040+.
94-97 Points, Jeroboams
The same colour as the regular vintage. Much more restrained on the nose than the regular
Niepoort vintage. But amazing class. Sucky stones and not that sweet. SO mineral and
individual.
18.5 Points, Jancis Robinson MW

Compared to other 2011s, the Bioma Vinha Velha has a more introspective, broody, earthier
bouquet that is well-defined but much more reticent than its peers. The palate is showing
much more than the aromatics with a robust structure on the opening, and thereafter there is
real power and precision. Plenty of white pepper sprinkled over the black fruit that leads to a
lovely damson and fig-tinged finish. This will need several years in bottle and no doubt will
receive a more ecstatic reception.
90-92 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Concentrated fruit here with a super-refined tannin backbone. Full body, medium sweet,
highly toned with stones and minerals. This is beautiful, rich and muscular all at the same
time. Only 450 cases produced of this foot-trodden wine from old vines aged three years in
oak pipes. Drink in 2020.
95 Points, James Suckling

2011 Quinta do Noval @ £240 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
If there has been a trend in recent times toward accentuating the terroir of Vintage Ports,
it is quite safe to say the Noval was a little ahead of the game, being more or less
responsible for establishing the currency of the ‘Quinta’, rather than producer or shipper.
From first appearing in land registries in 1715, to the transfer of operations from Vilanova
de Gaia to the estate at the end of the last century, this is definitively a single estate wine.

Very fine initial impression. Intense, profound and classically styled with deep dark black
hedgerow fruit alongside damson and tar. Complexity is the key here. Noticeable mineral
force lends linear precision and drive. Creamy and textured on the palate with a real sense of
place. Very fine.
95-96 Points, Jeroboams

The 2011 Quinta do Noval has wonderful precision on the nose with blackberry, cassis,
intriguing flinty notes and a whiff of smoke. It might not possess the power of the Naçional
but it has freshness to spare. That comes through on the beautifully composed palate, which
is underpinned by fine tannins that lend it a silky smooth mouthfeel. There is real intensity
here, but it is very controlled with superb minerality on the finish. Excellent.
94-96 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Blueberry and wet earth aromas. Full body, medium sweet and a long finish. Balanced and
refined. 2,000 cases produced of this foot-trodden wine. Try in 2022.
93 Points, James Suckling

2011 Quinta do Noval Naçional @ £350 per bottle IB (Individual wooden
case) – On allocation

The name Naçional refers to the fact that the vines in this tiny 2.5 hectare plot at the heart
of the Noval estate are ungrafted (on original rootstocks rather than phylloxera-resistant
imports), and thus connected directly to the ‘soil of the nation’. Quite aside from the
cultural implications of these ungrafted vines, this spectacular site has been proven over
countless decades to provide unsurpassable quality in the declared vintages. The fact that
this is the first since 2003 will only increase the clamour and demand for one of the most
revered wines on the planet.

So deep, so intriguing and beguiling. Soaring, heady perfume of wild flowers, herbs and
briar. Etched, stony palate profile with latent power and amplitude. Immense mineral drive
lends a hint of salinity. Reverberates with energy and force. Such focused intensity. Packed
in and tightly-wound. Esoteric and exciting! Great wine
98-99 Points, Jeroboams

The Quinta do Noval Naçional 2011 is one of the most breathtaking, nascent Vintage Ports
that I have ever met. The label should state a health warning: – “Sensory Overload” – since
the bouquet is endowed with copious dark berry fruit, minerals, bay leaf and cloves that
manifests like a slow-motion explosion from the glass. The palate is velvety-smooth on the
entry, but do not let that kid you. Wave after wave of intense ripe black fruit lap along your
sensory shoreline – indescribably harmonious with extremely well-judged acidity. There is a
crescendo of flavors that build towards a sensual, date and raisin-tinged, magisterial finish
that I can only analogize to the dramatic E-major chord that concludes The Beatles’ “A Day
In The Life.” In fact, Lennon & McCartney’s magnum opus probably sums up the 2011
Naçional better than any descriptor I can think of.
98-100 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
This is an amazing young Port: deep and powerful, subtle and refined. Full body, lightly
sweet with big chewy tannins that are polished and sexy. Amazingly well-crafted. Lasts for
minutes on the finish. Fantastic. The legend lives. Could be better than the perfect 1994 and
equal to the 1963. 220 cases produced of this foot-trodden wine from ungrafted vines. Try in
2024.
100 Points, James Suckling

2011 Quinta do Vesuvio @ £215 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
Single estate, by definition, but what an estate - sprawling over it’s seven hills, with an
abundance of ammunition to make top grade Vintage Port in almost every year.

Glycerol, viscous almost - brambles, blueberries and licquorice. Powerful, super-rich and
mouth-coating, but pepper and minerals liven things up. Likely to drink well at almost any
stage, but will go on for decades. Sublime. 2018-2045.
96-97 Points, Jeroboams

Treacle and firm on the nose – so noble! Rich and sweet and flattering on the palate. Gosh
this is gorgeous. It may open a little bit before some of the others but it's just classic. So
beautifully made.
18.5 Points, Jancis Robinson MW

The 2011 Quinta do Vesuvio has a primal bouquet with heady scents of macerated dark
cherries, boysenberry jam and a slight fug of alcohol that should be integrated by the time of
bottling. The palate is very rounded with sweet ripe tannins, plenty of raisin-tinged black
fruit, and delicate touches of cracked black pepper and shaved ginger on the cohesive finish.
This is a superb Quinta do Vesuvio.
92-94+ Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Aromas of flowers and berries with hints of dried fruits. Full body, medium sweet with solid
tannins and a powerful palate. This goes on for minutes. Extremely well-made. 1,250 cases
produced of this foot-trodden wine. Better in 2022.
95 Points, James Suckling

2011 Quinta do Vesuvio Capela @ £300 c/s IB (3 bts per case) – On
allocation

The Capela da Vesuvio blends the finest plots of component varieties (including for the
first time Alicante Bouschet) from the best vineyards at Vesuvio, taking it’s name from the
chapel on the estate. Only the second vintage produced, following the 2007, and only 200
cases produced.

Spicy and much more savour than estate wine. Less obvous pleasures, perhaps, but a superb
combination of black fruits, bitter chocolate, herbs and black pepper. 2018-2030+.
95-96 Points, Jeroboams
Very dark indeed. Hugely intense. Vibrates with excitement. Wild! Finishes dry and racy and
sinewy. Muscular. Really very fine indeed. needs lots of time and a bit more obviously
'made' but very impressive indeed. Scrubs the palate. Very exciting.
19.0 Points, Jancis Robinson MW

The 2011 Capela da Quinta do Vesuvio is a single vineyard bottling that ranks as one of the
finest of the declared Ports. Unlike the maiden 2007, it includes a small proportion of
Alicante Bouschet, while the heart of the Capela comes from the “Vale da Escola” plot of
Touriga Naçional close to the Quinta house. It is endowed with a heart-warming, refined,
elegant bouquet with pure scents of raspberry coulis, apricot jam, macerated small dark
cherries and blueberry. Supremely well-defined, it unfolds beautifully in the glass. The palate
is full-bodied with thick ripe, slightly chewy tannins and exquisite balance. Examining this
nascent Port over several minutes, it is stylistically reminiscent of the Noval’s Naçional, and
how can you not resist the tremendous power and “authority” of this Vintage Port that seems
self-aware of its class? It climaxes in a copious, lightly spiced, lemongrass-tinged finish that
goes on and on and on. What an outstanding Vintage Port! Just 200 cases declared – bottles
individually numbered.
95-97 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Aromas of dried cherries, blueberries and dried flowers. Full body, medium sweet with ultra-
fine tannins and a fruity finish. Only 200 cases produced of this foot-trodden, limited edition
blend that, uniquely to vintage Port, includes the grape variety Alicante Bouschet. Try in
2020.
93 Points, James Suckling

2011 Taylor’s @ £240 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
@ £245 c/s IB (12 halves per case)
@ £490 c/s IB (6 magnums per case)

With the Vinhas Velhas only taking up 2% of the production at Vargellas, the vines
supplying fruit for the backbone of Taylor’s Vintage are no young upstarts either.
Supplemented with fruit Quinta do Junco and the imposing Terra Feita – vineyards both
recognised for their excellence as far back as the mid 18th Century.

Great purity of blackberry and black cherry fruit on the nose, with lively floral lift. More
reticient to begin on the palate, but builds massively. Tightly wound, with rich black fruit and
five-spice – so much vigour and energy, but with uncompromising structure. Simultaneously
fine and poised, yet dense and powerful. Classic. 2024-2050+.
97-99 Points, Jeroboams

This wine was placed immediately after the super-opulent Fonseca in the BFT tasting which
may have been a mistake. This is restrained. well mannered, discreet, keeps its powder very
dry. But on the palate it opens out in the most superb, burgundian peacock's tail sort of way.
Another wonderful wine from The Fladgate Partnership. Utterly different from the Fonseca.
Upright and straight backed. But irreproachable. My gums are virtually impervious to sugar
and acid but this wine set them vibrating a bit. Dried prunes ground up with rocks.
19.5 Points, Jancis Robinson MW

The 2011 Taylor’s Vintage 2011 has a multifaceted, Pandora’s Box of a nose that is
mercurial in the glass: cassis at first before blackberry and raspberry politely ask it to move
aside, followed by wilted rose petals and Dorset plum. Returning after one 45 minutes that
nose has shut up shop. The palate is sweet and sensual on the entry, plush and opulent, with
copious black cherries, boysenberry and cassis fruit, curiously more reminiscent of Fonseca!
It just glides across the palate with a mouth-coating, glycerine-tinged finish that has a
wonderful lightness of touch, demonstrating how Vintage Port is so much more accessible in
its youth nowadays. But don’t let that fool you into dismissing the seriousness or magnitude
of this outstanding Taylor’s.
96-98 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Very pretty pure fruit on the nose: crushed berries and minerals with a licorice and graphite
undertone. Full body, medium sweet with chewy tannins that are polished and firm. This
shows balance and harmony, but remains powerful, muscular and toned. 11,000 cases
produced of this foot-trodden wine. Try in 2021.
96 Points, James Suckling

2011 Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha @ £350 c/s IB (3 bts per
case) – On allocation

The oldest vines from the best parcels on the estate – approx 2% of production, and hence
very limited availability.

Incredibly concentrated, yet so lively. Blackberry coulis, plums, spicebox, licquorice, violets.
Undeniable power, but elegance and sophistication win the day. Layered, complex and
complete; concentrated, focussed and harmonious. Whilst much is already on display, there
is clear depth and density indicating so much more to emerge over time. Every hallmark of
great wine. 2020-2050+.
98-99 Points, Jeroboams
Actually not as deep purple as some. More deep crimson. Complex and wild nose, sort of
biodynamic kind of profile. There's something burgundian and devil-may-care about this
wine. It's lovely for drinking already. How on earth are they going to persuade people to
hang on to it?? The sort of singer who doesn't obey any rules; just belts it out and doesn’t
mind whether the orchestra keeps up or not. Transparent and very distinctive. I'm tempted to
give a crazy drinking window…
19.5 Points, Jancis Robinson MW

As a reminder, the Vinha Vilha is a selection of old vine fruit from the terraces of Polverinho
and Renova do Armazem. Comparing it directly with the Taylor’s, there is even more
complexity and volume on the nose, with black currant, dark plum and a more accentuated
crushed stone aroma that lends it wonderful terroir expression. Like the Fonseca, it develops
compelling marine scents after 30-40 minutes in the glass, like stepping over rock pools
when you were a kid. The palate is medium-bodied with sumptuous, sensual ripe tannins that
layer the mouth. There is a palpable sense of harmony and composure to this Vinha Velha
and there is a lot of horsepower, more so than the Taylor’s, on the multi-dimensional finish.
The intensity of fruit means that it does not quite have the same degree of tension as the
Taylor’s, but the depth and breadth of this young Port suggests it will be a seriously long-
term fortified wine.
96-98 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com
Beautiful nose of flowers with plums and cherries; more like a fine table wine on the nose.
Full body, medium sweet with super-refined tannins and a long, superb finish. All about
finesse here. Only 310 cases produced of this foot-trodden wine from 19th century vines at
the Vargellas estate. Try in 2022.
96 Points, James Suckling

2011 Warre’s @ £195 c/s IB (6 bts per case)
@ £200 c/s IB (12 halves per case)
@ £200 c/s IB (3 magnums per case)

Warre’s trademark of finesse results from the careful combination of Cavadinha’s
elevated situation above the Pinhao valley, and the ancient vines at Retiro in the Rio Torto.

Elegance, finesse, and levity. Fantastically rich blue and black fruits, yet so pure and fresh
with enticing perfume – florality and five-spice. Appetizing, almost lip-smacking minerality.
Tannins imposing, yet impeccably mannered. Almost irrestible charm, right from the off, but
will inevitably evolve into a true classic. 2020- 2045.
96-97 Points, Jeroboams
More open, much looser and more obviously spicy than Graham. Rich and broad and
chocolate wrapped prunes. Lots of fun and appeal. Finishes dry.
18.0 Points, Jancis Robinson MW
The Warre’s Vintage was picked beginning on September 18 at Quinta da Cavindha, with
fruit also sourced from Quinta do Retiro and Quinta da Telhada. It is a blend of 37% Touriga
Naçional, 23% Tinta Franca and 40% mixture of old vines. There is a lovely sea spray note
on the 2011 Warre’s that emerges after ten minutes in the glass. It is nicely defined with a
tangible mineral component. The palate is very well-balanced with fine tannins, very well-
judged acidity and a languorous feel, as if everything is in place and it does not want to show
off. This is a lovely, refined 2011 – one of the most elegant 2011s. This is a classic Warre’s.
3,000 cases declared.
93-95 Points, Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com

Extremely floral and fruity with hints of lilacs and crushed fruit. Full body with refined
tannins integrated with a solid core of fruit, and a rich, round texture. This is lightly sweet
and follows through to a long, long finish. 3,000 cases produced of this mechanically trodden
wine. Try in 2022.
96 Points, James Suckling

Source: http://www.jeroboams.co.uk/port2012.pdf

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